WILD PONY EVENTING
Learning & Fun with Kiger Mustangs in Combined Training
Wild Pony Eventing
So You Want to Ride A Wild Pony? Before You Adopt
So you think you would like to try to ride a wild pony? We can share our experiences and lessons learned (and learning!) with our wild Kigers. Before, no make that BEFORE, you go out and bid on, adopt or buy a wild horse, do your homework. You need to learn about wild horses, team up with someone with experience, and find out what you are getting into. Otherwise you are setting yourself and the horse up for failure and possibly harm.
What horse? Not all wild mustangs are even the same breed. There are grade horses that have gone ferile, and then there are horses of Spanish lineage that continue to show that lineage in the phenotype and DNA. Generally, those Spanish horses are kept in separate herds by the BLM, such as the Kigers, the Sulphers, and several herds of Colonial Spanish Horses.
Along this line, you MUST learn basic horse communication. Horses have a specific set of behaviors and gestures that you absolutely must know in order to work with a horse, but especially with a wild horse. Once you learn to speak that language you can speak to your horse without touch and use that conversation to get to touching, grooming, tacking and riding. You must gain their trust fully. Bonding and trust can sometimes happen just through the course of interactions but Monty Roberts outlines his specific techniques of Join-Up in his website www.montyroberts.com. His books and DVDs which are available through his website.
Be Prepared. Your facilities may work for a domestic horse but not a wild one. A wild horse in flight will take down or go over the average fence or stall. It's best to keep a horse confined to a smaller space made of corral panels that are extra tall (6') and extra large tube (2") until it is safe to turn them out in larger paddocks and pasture. These panels can serve to enforce a stall or paddock and create a round pen to work with your horse. If you adopt from the BLM, they outline approved materials, sizes and make recommendations for stalls and paddocks.
Professional Support. Don't assume that every vet or farrier has experience with or is willing to work with a wild horse. You may need to get referrals and/or do some interviewing before you find the right vet and farrier.
What horse? Not all wild mustangs are even the same breed. There are grade horses that have gone ferile, and then there are horses of Spanish lineage that continue to show that lineage in the phenotype and DNA. Generally, those Spanish horses are kept in separate herds by the BLM, such as the Kigers, the Sulphers, and several herds of Colonial Spanish Horses.
Ask for Help. Unless you have much horse training experience and/or experience with wild horses, find a trainer who can help you through the process. If you adopt through the BLM they can usually help to pair you with a mentor. Don't forget to do your homework as well. There are some great books and websites out there, like those by Monty Roberts and Pat Parelli, that can help you throughout your journey of gentling the wild horse.
Along this line, you MUST learn basic horse communication. Horses have a specific set of behaviors and gestures that you absolutely must know in order to work with a horse, but especially with a wild horse. Once you learn to speak that language you can speak to your horse without touch and use that conversation to get to touching, grooming, tacking and riding. You must gain their trust fully. Bonding and trust can sometimes happen just through the course of interactions but Monty Roberts outlines his specific techniques of Join-Up in his website www.montyroberts.com. His books and DVDs which are available through his website.
Be Prepared. Your facilities may work for a domestic horse but not a wild one. A wild horse in flight will take down or go over the average fence or stall. It's best to keep a horse confined to a smaller space made of corral panels that are extra tall (6') and extra large tube (2") until it is safe to turn them out in larger paddocks and pasture. These panels can serve to enforce a stall or paddock and create a round pen to work with your horse. If you adopt from the BLM, they outline approved materials, sizes and make recommendations for stalls and paddocks.
Professional Support. Don't assume that every vet or farrier has experience with or is willing to work with a wild horse. You may need to get referrals and/or do some interviewing before you find the right vet and farrier.
Consider building a squeeze chute out of heavy lumber. It's possible you may never need it, but when you do, it's invaluable. There are plans for squeeze chutes in many books and all over the web. The purpose of the squeeze chute is to safely contain a wild horse when handling is necessary, such as emergency vetting or farrier work. Some people also find them useful for desensitizing horses for grooming. They are NOT meant as a gentling or breaking mechanism.
Trailering. Do you have a sturdy trailer that can get beat up? To haul from any BLM facility, you require and open box (e.g., no divider) and a step up trailer (no ramps).
If you decide adopting a wild pony is for you, good luck and please share your stories!
Currently Indespensible
The Northwest late autumn and early winter is wet and cold. This is my currently indespensible item list:
1. A dehumidifier in the tackroom. I think it speaks for itself.
2. A laundry line and/or lots of hooks in the tack room so wet but clean items can actually dry.
3. A water heater. My barn is not plumbed so I use a portable propane water heater. It doubles as the camp heater at shows.
4. The old fashioned mesh sweat sheets under a sheet. It just works better than fleece or waffle weave when the air is so wet and you need to dry off your horse.
5. Rubber palmed work gloves.
6. Towel bath items. Lots of towels - small for washing and big for rubbing dry, preferred shampoo, some spot remover like Cowboy Magic, and baby oil.
7. A wisp. Okay, I was raised in Pony Club so I call it a wisp but I use a loofah or a sisal grooming mitt. But its great for finishing grooming or rubbing down between blankets and stimulates oil in the coat.
8. Electrolytes. Several of my horses don't drink enough in the winter, so to make sure they are getting what they need, a little Apple a Day in the water makes me feel better.
9. Ahhh. Toe warmers. The squeeze kind you get for hiking or camping.
10. Synthetic tack. There, I said it. I have Wintec. If I am riding 3-5 days a week in pouring rain with no indoor arena, I am not going out there in leather.
11. An old fashioned real wool quarter sheet. Fleece gets soaked. The waterproof kind will rip and make scary noises. Wool can get wet and still keep your horse warm. I found mine on ebay as I couldn't find one at tack stores.
12. Waterproof turn out sheets and a rain sheet. I hate to turn out horses in blankets but I hate wet muddy ponies at riding time even more. I also have light rain sheets to throw over horse or tack to get from A to B for schooling shows or a lesson or in the trailer. The rain shets are too flimsy for turn out, so don't even try.
13. Stall entertainment. More time in the stall in winter means keeping those wild ponies busy instead of bored. Their hay is always fed out of a nibble bag to make it last. They enjoy the barn cats visiting and music playing. Otherwise I rotate balls, hanging toys, large dog toys, treat dispensers, stuffed animals, whatever they express an interest in they get, within reason. I know many people use mirrors, but my horses are freaked out by the intruder in the mirror.
14. A vacuumand/or body clippers. If you don't clip, sometimes the vacuum is the only way to get them clean without a full bath. I've used expesnive equine vacs and now I use a small, portable, dedicated (to horses bodies only) wet/dry vac. It does the job just as well. The ones I have had for 3 years I got on sale for under $40. Otherwise, Clipmasters are king.
15. Freshened kits and emergency supplies. Season changes are my cue to check first aid kits, emergency kits, evac supplies, etc. We flood, freeze and lose power in this season so having ready extra feed and hay, back up power, light, de-icer, etc can be critical.
1. A dehumidifier in the tackroom. I think it speaks for itself.
2. A laundry line and/or lots of hooks in the tack room so wet but clean items can actually dry.
3. A water heater. My barn is not plumbed so I use a portable propane water heater. It doubles as the camp heater at shows.
4. The old fashioned mesh sweat sheets under a sheet. It just works better than fleece or waffle weave when the air is so wet and you need to dry off your horse.
5. Rubber palmed work gloves.
6. Towel bath items. Lots of towels - small for washing and big for rubbing dry, preferred shampoo, some spot remover like Cowboy Magic, and baby oil.
7. A wisp. Okay, I was raised in Pony Club so I call it a wisp but I use a loofah or a sisal grooming mitt. But its great for finishing grooming or rubbing down between blankets and stimulates oil in the coat.
8. Electrolytes. Several of my horses don't drink enough in the winter, so to make sure they are getting what they need, a little Apple a Day in the water makes me feel better.
9. Ahhh. Toe warmers. The squeeze kind you get for hiking or camping.
10. Synthetic tack. There, I said it. I have Wintec. If I am riding 3-5 days a week in pouring rain with no indoor arena, I am not going out there in leather.
11. An old fashioned real wool quarter sheet. Fleece gets soaked. The waterproof kind will rip and make scary noises. Wool can get wet and still keep your horse warm. I found mine on ebay as I couldn't find one at tack stores.
12. Waterproof turn out sheets and a rain sheet. I hate to turn out horses in blankets but I hate wet muddy ponies at riding time even more. I also have light rain sheets to throw over horse or tack to get from A to B for schooling shows or a lesson or in the trailer. The rain shets are too flimsy for turn out, so don't even try.
13. Stall entertainment. More time in the stall in winter means keeping those wild ponies busy instead of bored. Their hay is always fed out of a nibble bag to make it last. They enjoy the barn cats visiting and music playing. Otherwise I rotate balls, hanging toys, large dog toys, treat dispensers, stuffed animals, whatever they express an interest in they get, within reason. I know many people use mirrors, but my horses are freaked out by the intruder in the mirror.
14. A vacuumand/or body clippers. If you don't clip, sometimes the vacuum is the only way to get them clean without a full bath. I've used expesnive equine vacs and now I use a small, portable, dedicated (to horses bodies only) wet/dry vac. It does the job just as well. The ones I have had for 3 years I got on sale for under $40. Otherwise, Clipmasters are king.
15. Freshened kits and emergency supplies. Season changes are my cue to check first aid kits, emergency kits, evac supplies, etc. We flood, freeze and lose power in this season so having ready extra feed and hay, back up power, light, de-icer, etc can be critical.
The Herbal Horse - Comfrey
Comfrey is a weed herb that we use regularly with the horses, both fresh and dried. It is a highly beneficial herb and is easy and inexpensive to grow and harvest and create you own remedies. Comfrey has recently gotten some bad press including dire warnings that comfrey is not a safe herb. I believe herbalist Susan Weed addresses this:
"There are two species of comfrey: wild comfrey, Symphytum officinale, and cultivated comfrey, Symphytum uplandica x. (The "x" means it is a hybrid, a cross.)Wild comfrey (S. off.) is a small plant--up to a meter tall--with yellow flowers. Cultivated comfrey (S. uplandica x.) is a large plant--often surpassing two meters--with blue or purple flowers. Everyone I know grows uplandica and that is what is sold in stores. But gardeners and herbal sellers alike usually mislabel it, causing no end of confusion. To complicate the situation even more: the roots and the leaves of comfrey contain different constituents. Comfrey roots, like most perennial roots, contain poisons. Wild comfrey (officinale) leaves have some of the same poisons. But cultivated comfrey (uplandica) leaves don't.
Comfrey's main uses are to heal bone and soft tissue. In fact it's folk name is "knit bone." Comfrey is high in allantoin, a constituent that encourages cell regeneration which accounts for its ability to speed healing. The hepatic pyrrolizidine alkaloids found in comfrey are responsibile for the rare liver failure with excessive internal comfrey use. To be safe, use only the purple/blue flowering comfrey, and do not use the roots internally. Comfrey is also high in protein (typically 20% in cultivated comfrey) and vitamin B12.
Comfrey is easily grown from root propogation. In fact, so much so that you should be very thoughtful in where you plant comfrey as even the tiniest root piece will generate a new plant. And comfrey grows fast and big so you must keep up with it. But once you discover the benefits of comfrey, you will be harvesting it regularly. This plant has traditionally been a fodder plant for livestock, including horses. I don't grow comfrey where the horses have free access to it because I want to know how much each horse is ingesting. Because it is a hardy weed, it will be strong and ready for use before and after grass, and in the height of summer when much of the grass has died. It will tolerate most soil types but does need at least part sun. I like to grow it in one bed and along a path to the barn.
I regularly feed the horses fresh comfrey while it is growing. They will clean up a pile of leaves about once a week. If a horse needs the plant medicinally, I typically feed it daily. Ocassionaly a horse doesn't like the fuzzy texture of the fresh leaves and so I put the dried herb in their feed. I use comfrey externally for minor cuts, scrapes and internally for burns and soft tissue and bone issues. For cuts and scrapes, I put comfrey in a salve so that I have it all year round. I also dry plant material for feeding in the winter. Comfrey makes a wonderful warm or frozen poultice. It's easiest to make the poultice from fresh leaf and root. You can also reconstitute dried leaf for a poultice but it is far less satisfying without all the gooey mucilage from the fresh plant.
How much to grow? For feeding, I grow one plant for horse. Then I grow an extra plant per horse for making medicine and drying for winter use.
Whether you are looking to provide good nutrition, treat a cut, lameness or arthtritis, comfrey is your horse's ally.
HOW TO:
HARVEST - pull or clip leaves off plant before flowering. Feed fresh, or hang upside down by the stalk to dry (barns are great places to dry herbs). Store dried herb in a sealed container away from light and heat.
OIL - Fill a jar half way with dried comfrey leaf and add olive oil to just before top. Allow to steep for 2-4 weeks (sunlight is okay but don't use a stove as the intense heat may damage the herb). Oil will turn a beautiful dark green.
SALVE/CREAM - combine 1 cup of infused comfrey oil with 1 ounce of beeswax over low heat. Stir to mix. Pour into a glass container and allow to cool naturally. To make a cream, take melted salve mix off heat and whip in purified water. Spoon into storage container.
POULTICE - for external use - coursely chop or puree comfrey leaf and stem, add some root if desired. Mixture can be used as is or thickened with flour. Freeze to store in cotton or mulsin pouches inside platsic bag.
"There are two species of comfrey: wild comfrey, Symphytum officinale, and cultivated comfrey, Symphytum uplandica x. (The "x" means it is a hybrid, a cross.)Wild comfrey (S. off.) is a small plant--up to a meter tall--with yellow flowers. Cultivated comfrey (S. uplandica x.) is a large plant--often surpassing two meters--with blue or purple flowers. Everyone I know grows uplandica and that is what is sold in stores. But gardeners and herbal sellers alike usually mislabel it, causing no end of confusion. To complicate the situation even more: the roots and the leaves of comfrey contain different constituents. Comfrey roots, like most perennial roots, contain poisons. Wild comfrey (officinale) leaves have some of the same poisons. But cultivated comfrey (uplandica) leaves don't.
Comfrey's main uses are to heal bone and soft tissue. In fact it's folk name is "knit bone." Comfrey is high in allantoin, a constituent that encourages cell regeneration which accounts for its ability to speed healing. The hepatic pyrrolizidine alkaloids found in comfrey are responsibile for the rare liver failure with excessive internal comfrey use. To be safe, use only the purple/blue flowering comfrey, and do not use the roots internally. Comfrey is also high in protein (typically 20% in cultivated comfrey) and vitamin B12.
Comfrey is easily grown from root propogation. In fact, so much so that you should be very thoughtful in where you plant comfrey as even the tiniest root piece will generate a new plant. And comfrey grows fast and big so you must keep up with it. But once you discover the benefits of comfrey, you will be harvesting it regularly. This plant has traditionally been a fodder plant for livestock, including horses. I don't grow comfrey where the horses have free access to it because I want to know how much each horse is ingesting. Because it is a hardy weed, it will be strong and ready for use before and after grass, and in the height of summer when much of the grass has died. It will tolerate most soil types but does need at least part sun. I like to grow it in one bed and along a path to the barn.
I regularly feed the horses fresh comfrey while it is growing. They will clean up a pile of leaves about once a week. If a horse needs the plant medicinally, I typically feed it daily. Ocassionaly a horse doesn't like the fuzzy texture of the fresh leaves and so I put the dried herb in their feed. I use comfrey externally for minor cuts, scrapes and internally for burns and soft tissue and bone issues. For cuts and scrapes, I put comfrey in a salve so that I have it all year round. I also dry plant material for feeding in the winter. Comfrey makes a wonderful warm or frozen poultice. It's easiest to make the poultice from fresh leaf and root. You can also reconstitute dried leaf for a poultice but it is far less satisfying without all the gooey mucilage from the fresh plant.
How much to grow? For feeding, I grow one plant for horse. Then I grow an extra plant per horse for making medicine and drying for winter use.
Whether you are looking to provide good nutrition, treat a cut, lameness or arthtritis, comfrey is your horse's ally.
HOW TO:
HARVEST - pull or clip leaves off plant before flowering. Feed fresh, or hang upside down by the stalk to dry (barns are great places to dry herbs). Store dried herb in a sealed container away from light and heat.
OIL - Fill a jar half way with dried comfrey leaf and add olive oil to just before top. Allow to steep for 2-4 weeks (sunlight is okay but don't use a stove as the intense heat may damage the herb). Oil will turn a beautiful dark green.
SALVE/CREAM - combine 1 cup of infused comfrey oil with 1 ounce of beeswax over low heat. Stir to mix. Pour into a glass container and allow to cool naturally. To make a cream, take melted salve mix off heat and whip in purified water. Spoon into storage container.
POULTICE - for external use - coursely chop or puree comfrey leaf and stem, add some root if desired. Mixture can be used as is or thickened with flour. Freeze to store in cotton or mulsin pouches inside platsic bag.
Johnny the Giant White Wizard
Johnny, our big TB gelding, is usually referred to as the wild pony sitter. He does have a high ranking role in our barn. He is our only domestic horse, and being a pretty laid back guy who has done it all, he is the wise old teacher to the ponies. But Johnny has his own special magic, too. He is a gentle giant who we acquired through race horse rescue at age 12, and has been the all around family horse. Last year, Johnny had a life-threatening injury. He not only beat the odds of survival, but he returned to the pasture as a sound horse. This is an immense accomplishment in itself, but it became clear that Johnny was a bit bored. He galloped around the pasture and was most definitely mopey when the ponies got out to do things and he was left behind. And so the Giant White Wizard has started his rehab under saddle. He has already clocked quite a few hours of walking. He is not on bute or any anti-inflammatories, but I support him with a joint supplement, nettle and comfrey. He gets a bit of heat before riding and ice after, and he wears tendon boots for support. I have just acquired some magnetic boots to use before walks. He seems to be enjoying the extra attention, is getting stronger, and most importantly, is sound. Go! Go! Go Johhny Go!
Kiger Marcos Moon - the Up and Coming Wild Pony Prince
After much ado, Marcos is under saddle and training toward becoming and event pony. Much of his "ado" recently centered his move into the big barn. This may sound like a small thing, but for a wild pony, all new things are very scary and even more so when you are being asked to go into a big cave that has a clippity-clop floor! When he finally got into his new stall next to Frost, he was trembling and sweaty but soon settled in. He is now getting used to the more domestic routine of show grooming, turn out (and returning to the barn), odd electrical items that make noise and sometimes touch him, and playing dress up with blankets, boots and tack. A lot for a wild pony to take in! His big sis Frost has been of some help, but she also plays some dirty tricks on him like stealing his stuff or closing the stall door on him. (Bad Pony Princess!). Marcos is taking it all in and certainly seems to be enjoying all the attention. His under saddle experience so far has consisted of being mounted and dismounted repeatedly, and walking in a small circle while mounted. No bucks...yet...stay tuned for the updates on Marcos' training.
Marcos wears his first sheet. Glad that we went with a hand-me-down as he did take it for some QA testing
. But he did not take it off or rip it up like some other wild pony...
First saddle up.
Marcos wears his first sheet. Glad that we went with a hand-me-down as he did take it for some QA testing
. But he did not take it off or rip it up like some other wild pony...First saddle up.
Frost - A Very Cerebral Wild Event Pony
Just as I recover from the flu, the rains have become heavy which makes riding without an indoor challenging in the Northwest. But, it also makes small, repetitive work on basics a little easier since there's no field calling us to gallop through it. Frost and I have been working on the all important inside leg to outside rein, degrees of half halt, and all of our gait transitions in various terrain and conditions. She continues to prove herself to be quick to learn, wanting to please, and happy to work. She is still a spoiled Wild Pony Princess, mind you. Frost is currently a bit upset with the whole idea of my working with her herd brother, Marcos. Tacking up in a stall next to Frost, Marcos has had his saddle pad snatched off his back several times now. Frost also took advantage of the Mama leaving the rolling grooming bin in the barn aisle this week. She managed to reach it and pull it close enough to her stall to open the drawers and sort through the items. Her brushes and boots were placed neatly in a corner of her stall. Anything belonging to her brother, in the water bucket! You cannot convince me that this mare does not think things through. Okay, perhaps she is a bit impulsive and even devious at times, but she is a very cerebral wild event pony.
Frost cools down after a ride and hams for the camera with a funky hay hairdo.
Frost cools down after a ride and hams for the camera with a funky hay hairdo.
Baby Maya, Almost a Weanling!
Our baby Kiger Maya Moon is 5 months old now and headed for weaning in less than a month. Her latest accomplishment is accepting and chewing treats. Now the little monster begs with the grown up ponies
The Flu!
UGH! We have been up and down with the flu for weeks! It has really taken a toll, but hopefully we are on the mend. When able we have been training with Frost at Upson Downs Farm and doing ground work with the babies at home. Baby Maya got her first trim with the farrier. She was a total doll! Fi had her second successful trim all around without fear. Yay! Johnny has started a slow rehab program under saddle which to date has been successful and, most importantly, sound. Other than that, we have been preparing for flood season as it is fast approaching...stay dry, safe and warm.
Five Hour Farrier Fun
Yeserday was an epic day with the farrier. Four horses, five hours, and just a bit of drama!
First, Frosty did get new shoes (not boots). She has become quite the trooper for the shoer. We stayed with the aluminum eventer shoes with drill holes for studs. I did try riding with a fitted pair of boots and while Frosty didn't seem to mind them, the first real turn we took on that foot she stepped right out of the boot. I'm not putting away the idea forever, but for now, I don't have the time or money to search for boots as a primary foot protection. I have the easy boot for an emergency, and as I am able I will look for better fit and stability. So, the bells boots are on and we'll see if that prevents "shoe torquing."
Johnny got his feet worked on more and he is looking better! Both his front feet are remedial status from his injury last year. One side has scar tissue and his sole is slowly being brought down trim by trim. The other has damage from the pressure of holding all his weight for the months that he bore little or no weight on the other leg. This session his front feet measure the same even though they don't look quite the same yet.
Marcos was marvelous for his second professional trim. A total gem! And Fi, well, despite her abuse issues and control issues over feet, got all four of her feet trimmed in one session. Historically, Fi has needed sedation as she was abused previously and learned that as a big Percheron, she can run through or take down just about anything. It has taken many sessions of trust building to get her to the point that she understands not only that we are not out to hurt her, but that nervous feelings don't mean she can trample someone. Our farrier had mixed feelings of exhaustion and triumph. And so our next scheduled stop includes a quick follow up with Fi next month and baby Maya's first trim!
First, Frosty did get new shoes (not boots). She has become quite the trooper for the shoer. We stayed with the aluminum eventer shoes with drill holes for studs. I did try riding with a fitted pair of boots and while Frosty didn't seem to mind them, the first real turn we took on that foot she stepped right out of the boot. I'm not putting away the idea forever, but for now, I don't have the time or money to search for boots as a primary foot protection. I have the easy boot for an emergency, and as I am able I will look for better fit and stability. So, the bells boots are on and we'll see if that prevents "shoe torquing."
Johnny got his feet worked on more and he is looking better! Both his front feet are remedial status from his injury last year. One side has scar tissue and his sole is slowly being brought down trim by trim. The other has damage from the pressure of holding all his weight for the months that he bore little or no weight on the other leg. This session his front feet measure the same even though they don't look quite the same yet.
Marcos was marvelous for his second professional trim. A total gem! And Fi, well, despite her abuse issues and control issues over feet, got all four of her feet trimmed in one session. Historically, Fi has needed sedation as she was abused previously and learned that as a big Percheron, she can run through or take down just about anything. It has taken many sessions of trust building to get her to the point that she understands not only that we are not out to hurt her, but that nervous feelings don't mean she can trample someone. Our farrier had mixed feelings of exhaustion and triumph
. And so our next scheduled stop includes a quick follow up with Fi next month and baby Maya's first trim!
The Battle of the Horse Shoes
September 30, 2009
THE
Frosty pulled, I mean torqued-type pulled, yet another front shoe two days ago. Our farrier cannot get to us until the weekend. I really wanted to ride because we had a lesson scheduled today and are entered at an event this coming weekend. I went and got an EasyBoot and the first one didn’t fit. I tried a different style and it fit well enough to walk but that’s it. So today we hand walked today missed our lesson. I have been doing research on both hoof boots and keeping shoes on. I have always meant to keep my ponies barefoot but once we started to jump and event, we seemed to need the shoes. There’s not much out there in terms of information let alone research for hoof boots and jumping. Although manufacturers of hoof boots claim most of their boots are fine to jump with, there are many stories about how easily the boots come off in various terrains and during galloping and jumping. I did find one great blog, “Eventing-A- Gogo” where a young woman chronicles her experiences barefoot eventing and using hoof boots and other natural horsemanship techniques, which I do recommend readers check out. But, it seems I will have to do much of my own foot work in terms of finding boots that might work for my ponies. In the meantime, I have an emergency set of EasyBoots.
So my research on the why’s and how to prevent pulling shoes brings up a lot of conflicting information. I am used to this with researching horse issues but hoof health is tantamount. The best barefoot trimmers and farriers recommend not rolling or squaring toes to prevent pulling shoes (and in fact much front shoe pulling happens front foot stepping on front foot). They also do not recommend making the shoe too small by not allowing some "overage" of the shoe that shows to support the hoof wall as it grows between trims. Instead, the most reasonable recommendations I’ve found were hot shoeing to get the best custom fit, using pull on bell boots, and reducing or eliminating deep footing (the footing does not suck the shoe off but the slowed pulling up out of it with the front feet leave them vulnerable to the hind catching) and reducing boredom at the non-electric fence line (pawing at the fence can loosen or take off a shoe).
Now my pony falls into most of these categories. She’s a pawer. She gets bored easily. We have deep footing, rock hard footing, gravel or mud. And I don’t turn her out with boots because what she can’t undo and toss, she chews off. So, it looks like I am back to having several pairs of pull on bells and maybe spray painting them a neon color to find them in the pasture….
